When you think of a breathtaking piece of jewelry or the ultimate symbol of love, the engagement ring, the search often focuses on design. Yet alongside exceptional design, the quality of the stones plays a decisive role in the purchase and value of diamond jewelry. For generations, the 4 Cs, meaning cut, color, clarity and carat, have defined the value of a diamond.

Important to know: the diamonds we create in the lab, just like mined diamonds, each have a unique structure and their own quality characteristics, which are graded according to the 4 Cs.

The 4 Cs at a Glance:

• Carat = weight
• Color = color grade
• Cut = cut quality
• Clarity = purity

But what lies behind these terms and grading categories?

The Weight of a Diamond: Carat

Size or weight?

Carat is the unit in which the weight of a diamond is expressed. Although it is probably the best-known characteristic of a diamond, it is very often confused with size. As mentioned above, no two lab-grown diamonds are the same, just as in nature. Yet by size alone, they can sometimes be very hard to tell apart. This is why the value of a diamond is measured partly by its weight, where:

1 carat (ct) = 0.2 grams

This equivalent was defined in 1907 to avoid misunderstandings. But even before that, the weight of a diamond was determined with the help of the carob tree. Derived from the Greek “kerátion” (= little horn), describing the shape of the carob pod, one seed corresponded to one carat, or 0.2 grams, at the time. Each carat is also divided into 100 points, so a half-carat diamond is also a 50-pointer.

Beyond the carat figure alone, keep in mind that the shape of a diamond has a considerable influence on how its size is perceived. As mentioned, size, measured in millimeters, does not correspond to carat weight. As a result, diamonds of the same carat weight can differ in size, depending on shape and cut.

Distinctive cuts such as the oval, pear or emerald cut appear larger than round brilliant-cut diamonds because of their more elongated top (the table of the diamond), as the weight is distributed more evenly between the top and bottom of the stone. Especially when choosing an engagement ring, a distinctive cut can maximize the presence of the ring.

Weight is therefore a significant factor in determining the value of a diamond. But however heavy a diamond may be, if it has the wrong color, a poor cut or low clarity, its value is lower.

The Color of a Diamond

Alongside carat weight, color is decisive for the quality of a diamond, because diamonds come in different colors and not every one is simply transparent. Color here does not mean pink, yellow or blue, but the tint of the diamond, that is, whether a diamond is completely colorless or has a yellowish tint. Accordingly, the more colorless a diamond is, the more valuable and rare it is. The most common method of grading color was established internationally by GIA & IGI, two of the world’s leading gemological laboratories, and uses a letter scale from D to Z. D means the diamond is exceptional white, completely colorless to the naked eye, while Z means the diamond has a very strong yellow tint. At “Z”, of course, the diamond does not shimmer in a beautiful sunny yellow, as it is not a fancy diamond, but in a kind of yellowish-tinted white. At VEYNOU, we use only colorless to near-colorless diamonds, corresponding to D to F on the scale.

In practice, the interplay of color and carat is very important, as color becomes more noticeable the larger the diamond is. For diamonds over 1 carat, we therefore recommend considering color as a key factor in the brilliance of the diamond before making a purchase and, if appropriate, investing in a more colorless grade.

Finally, the choice of precious metal in which the diamond is set also influences how its color is perceived. With white gold and platinum in particular, a yellowish tint or a lower color grade may even be accentuated by the contrast between the white metal and a yellowish diamond. Yellow and rose gold, on the other hand, can conceal a slight tint.

The Cut of a Diamond

A particularly important criterion is the brilliance of a diamond, also called “fire”. It describes how strongly incoming light is captured and refracted by the diamond. This fire depends on the cut, meaning the arrangement of the polished facets, and is largely determined by the craftsmanship and precision of the cutter.

The word “brilliance” comes from one of the best-known and oldest cuts, the brilliant cut. In the “cut” category, however, the cut style itself does not matter; what counts is the quality of the cut. A well-cut diamond reflects light back to the viewer thanks to the ideal ratio of depth to width. A poorly cut diamond, by contrast, scatters the light and loses fire, and with it brilliance.

Symmetry also counts when it comes to cut quality. When the facets are cut in symmetrical relation to one another, the viewer sees a calm image and the diamond appears “cleaner”: the pursuit of perfect symmetry.

An excellent cut is therefore the combination of symmetry and the right ratio of depth to width, for flawless proportions and the distinctive fire of a diamond. The cut can decide whether a flawless diamond looks rather dull or whether a diamond with a yellowish tint appears of higher quality. In addition, the better the cut, the larger a diamond appears.

An Overview of the Anatomy of a Diamond:

Table: the flat top surface of the diamond
Crown: the upper part of the diamond between girdle and table
Girdle: the outer edge between the upper and lower part of the diamond
Culet: the tip of the diamond

How Are Cuts Graded?

According to the cut scale standardized by GIA, cuts are graded from “Excellent” through “Very Good” and “Good” to “Poor”. A diamond with an excellent cut has perfect symmetry and brilliance, the result of masterful craftsmanship, and is very rare.

Which Cuts Are There?

It is important to note that in everyday language, the cut is often equated with the shape of a diamond. However, the cut refers to the arrangement of the individual facets, whereas the shape refers to the overall appearance of the diamond. Still, for a better understanding it makes sense to assign the shapes to the cuts.

The most classic shape is the brilliant cut. The oval, pear and emerald cuts are also very popular.

The Clarity of a Diamond

Probably the best-known criterion

Clarity describes the “inclusions”, or imperfections, of a diamond. These inclusions, which form naturally as the diamond grows (in both lab-grown and mined diamonds), are highly characteristic, as they make every diamond unique: a distinctive birthmark, so to speak.

Since these inclusions naturally interfere with brilliance (after all, light can no longer be reflected back unhindered from every viewing angle), the fewer inclusions a diamond has, the more valuable it is. In most cases, however, they are invisible to the naked eye and can only be seen under a loupe.

When Is a Diamond “Flawless”?

The clarity of a diamond is determined using the clarity scale. Diamonds without any inclusions are referred to as “flawless” or, as shown on the scale, as “IF” (Internally Flawless). We work exclusively with diamonds of clarity VS2 or better (VS = Very Slightly Included), meaning minimal inclusions that are invisible to the naked eye and visible to experts only under 10x magnification. The result: unrivaled fire & brilliance.

Every diamond has unique characteristics, even if two diamonds look exactly identical at first glance. On closer inspection, even an untrained eye will notice that diamonds differ in weight, color, cut and clarity depending on their quality. The 4 Cs are therefore ideal for determining value and, alongside design, are of great importance when searching for the perfect piece of jewelry.